The El Camino Travel Guide to Marseille, France
Written by Kayla Doris
Welcome to Marseille, France’s oldest city and the second largest city in the country. Depending on who you speak to, you will likely hear mixed opinions on Marseille. To some, it’s dangerous, messy, and ‘not really France.’ To others, it’s a city brimming with authenticity, character, and community. As always, there’s some truth to both sides. As France’s most diverse city and with strong working-class roots, it doesn’t fit the polished image you would associate with French cities. Its position on the Mediterranean coast has made it a historic gateway between Europe, Africa, and the Middle East, and today it’s home to communities from North Africa, the Comoros, Armenia, Italy, and more. This cultural mix has moulded Marseille’s identity into something entirely its own. You’ll hear French spoken from buzzing cafe terraces, smell spices from Tunisian and Algerian eateries, pass Italian bakeries with fresh focaccia, and wander markets that feel like North African souks. How you feel about it may depend on how tightly you hold onto a traditional idea of what France ‘should’ be. It is rough around the edges—the streets are covered in graffiti, old buildings are crumbling, and even the beaches are rocky rather than sandy. But it also has an undeniably good food scene, a stunning national park, lashings of culture, and a rebellious spirit that refuses to conform. Visit with an open mind, embrace the contradictions, and enjoy the ride.
We’ve collaborated with local experts, Sarah Espeute—local artist-designer and founder of Œuvres Sensibles, Catherine Bastide—gallery owner at La Traverse, and Najla Chami—restaurant owner at Mouné, to curate a list of insider recommendations for eating, drinking, shopping, and sightseeing your way through the city. We’ve also included tips from ECT members Lauren Michaels and Kellie Mortimer.
Eat
Feast on contemporary Lebanese dishes at Mouné, a community staple that has earned a loyal following through its homestyle cooking and warm hospitality. “My husband, Serje and I decided to open Mouné out of passion for food and Lebanese food in particular. We wanted to show that Lebanese food isn't only about mezze and is a much more sophisticated cuisine. The Lebanese have always been travelers - they brought many spices, tastes, recipes, products and so on from all around the world. We at Mouné love to meet people and share this passion, and show that our cuisine is rich, modern and open to the world,” says Najla. The menu changes daily, so while we can’t recommend one dish in particular, trust that you’ll be guided well by the team. Find it located in the 1st arrondissement.
Also included in the guide:
A low-key, deeply local spot you’d never stumble upon unless someone told you, that serves vibrant grain salads tossed with seasonal vegetables and fragrant herbs
An intimate Japanese canteen where Marseille meets Tokyo
The thoughtful fine-dining venue with just 12 seats (reserve ahead of time!)
Image credit: Oeuvres Sensibles
Stay
Stay in a creative retreat of dreams—a sunny studio located above an art gallery (and with a gorgeous view of the sea). The guestroom is part of La Traverse, a space dedicated to design and contemporary art in the Malmousque neighborhood. Its creative roots are evident in the room, which is laden with design knick-knacks, art books, playful furniture, and both an indoor and outdoor writing desk. The room includes a double bed and an extra bed, a kitchen, a library, a shower room, and an outdoor balcony. Downstairs, you can enjoy easy access to art events and a summer pop-up cafe. See the room here.
Also included in the guide:
A renovated fisherman’s cottage full of pop colors and retro details
The 1870s villa transformed into a intimate, adults-only stay
The cult favorite hotel that’s all over your Instagram feed
Image credit: Mouné
Shop
Marvel at the poetic creations at Oeuvres Sensibles, one of the city’s most soulful design studios, where you can explore design objects and hand-stitched home linens created by the artist-designer Sarah Espeute. The boutique-atelier features an area where the team crafts hand-embroidered tablecloths, napkins, and cushions with delicate sketches. The showroom is where you can find Sarah’s current collection, plus a curated selection of vintage objects and pieces from local designers she admires. Visits have to be made by appointment. Email shop@oeuvres-sensibles.com.
Also included in the guide:
A former soap factory turned sun‑lit concept store, craft gallery, and minimal cantine
The anti-concept store where all the cool kids are going
A historic hardware store offering household items that preserve the craftsmanship of yesteryears
Image credit: La Traverse
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