The El Camino Travel Guide to Puglia, Italy
Written by Kayla Doris
That Italian summer you’re dreaming of? It’s probably based on Puglia. Sparkling coastlines, whitewashed towns, linen shirts drying in the sun, and long lunches that turn into dinners. This is the “heel of the boot”, one of Italy’s most soulful, slow, and sensory regions. A road trip through Puglia will take you through hilltop towns like Ostuni and Locorotondo, baroque cities like Lecce, seaside villages such as the famous Polignano a Mare, and past endless olive groves, vineyards, and changing landscapes. Along the way, you’ll get to enjoy a cuisine where simple ingredients shine—expect seafood, vegetables, legumes, wild herbs, handmade pasta, and plenty of olive oil—all transformed into deeply satisfying meals that stretch for hours. You'll find culture and history layered in every crumbling facade, but also design-forward boutiques, art hotels, and boundary-pushing chefs keeping things fresh. We’ve structured this guide for a trip starting in central Puglia around Bari and heading south into sun-drenched Salento, including some unmissable stops along the way—from textile studios empowering local women to a museum you can sleep in, communal dinners in the forest, legendary bakeries, and more.
We’ve collaborated with local experts, Vito Dicecca—entrepreneur and cheesemaker, Luca Fumagalli—founder of Officine Silentio and Borgo Silentio, Antonia Yasmina Filali—hotelier and owner of La Fiermontina Family Collection, Filippo Bacile di Castiglione—founder of Tre Bacili, and Anna Maria Enselmi—art collector and owner of Palazzo Luce, to curate a list of insider recommendations for eating, drinking, shopping, and sightseeing your way through Puglia.
Eat
Step into the pine forest of Mercadante for an off-grid, communal dining experience, hosted by fifth-generation cheesemaker Vito Dicecca. “My family has been making cheese since 1930, and since 2012, I’ve been dedicated to curating eno-gastronomic travel experiences here in Puglia,” Vito tells us. “I live full-time in the heart of the Mercadante Forest — 5,000 acres of wild beauty — where I host tailor-made experiences for guests from all over the world. Everything I do is rooted in nature, and the focus is on traditional cheesemaking, natural wine, and meaningful connection with the land.” His restaurant, Baby Dicecca, feels part nature retreat, part intimate tasting. Guests enjoy a leisurely paced lunch feasting on Puglian goat cheeses, bread, honey, and biodynamic wine. Make sure to book ahead; it will be a trip highlight for sure.
Also included in the guide:
A legendary bakery known for its ancient bread-making traditions (it’s well worth the queue)
Spectacular cliffside dining and impeccable seafood
A laid-back bar where guests enjoy their drinks from beanbags in a narrow, cobblestone stairway
Image credit: Officine Silentio
Stay
Spend the night at the Fiermonte Museum in Lecce and sleep amongst vaulted ceilings, rare books, and artworks by Antonia Fiermonte, Jacques Zwobada, René Letourneur, and other great artists. The private palazzo turned living gallery invites guests to immerse themselves in a curated world of art and design. The ground floor is open to the public as a museum space, featuring both permanent and rotating exhibitions. Upstairs, the hotel unfolds over three floors with four suites, each themed around a different art form: painting, sculpture, music, and film. For a luxe experience, consider booking the Marbre Suite on the top floor; dedicated to sculpture, it features striking art pieces, powder green walls, and an expansive private terrace and jacuzzi. Even if you don’t plan on staying, we still recommend visiting the space, which also hosts cooking classes and events.
Also included in the guide:
A 15th-century palazzo turned private design museum and hotel
A 7-room boutique stay set beside a medieval church and just steps from the sea
Dream countryside villas that are ideal for groups with private pools and BBQ areas
Image credit: Baby Dicecca
Shop
Visit the Officine Silentio concept store in Ostuni for beautiful patterned textiles. The founder, Luca Fumagalli, curates a refined selection of garments and accessories crafted by artisans in parts of the world where traditional craftsmanship in printing, embroidery, and textiles still thrives. Shop handprinted patchwork waistcoats, textile makeup bags, and lightweight summer dresses.
Also included in the guide:
A dreamworld of antique furniture, artisan ceramics, and architectural gems
The talented designer selling small batch pieces—structured jackets, minimal dresses, fabric clutches, and accessories.
Luxurious, design-forward home textiles all crafted with Italian expertise
Image credit: Fiermonte Museum
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