The El Camino Travel Guide to Tbilisi, Georgia
Written by Kayla Doris
It’s impossible to capture Tbilisi—Georgia’s capital and cultural core—with words. It has to be experienced, and you have to understand its history to feel the full weight of what makes it so compelling. Positioned between Europe and Asia, Georgia has long been a crossroads of empires, resulting in Tbilisi being rebuilt, occupied, and reimagined countless times—by Persians, Arabs, Mongols, Ottomans, Russians, and Soviets. Georgia was under Soviet rule for a full 70 years (until 1991), which deeply shaped the country’s political, social, and cultural fabric. During this time, Georgia’s borders were closed to much of the outside world, private enterprise was illegal, and creative expression was often suppressed. In spite of this, Georgia retained a strong national identity. People preserved their language, cuisine, music, and customs, often privately or through subtle resistance. These decades of enforced isolation and cultural endurance help explain why today’s Georgia—Tbilisi in particular—feels so fiercely expressive, with a strong sense of national pride woven into everything from its art and architecture to its food and everyday life.
Since the Rose Revolution in 2003, the country has undergone major transformation. Tbilisi has emerged as a creative hub, with independent designers, winemakers, chefs, and artists reclaiming old buildings and reimagining them in their own way. Those who are only familiar with the country’s past may be surprised by how creative and design-forward the city is. Bold architecture, boundary-pushing restaurants, independent concept stores, and innovative art projects await—and the best part is that it all feels deeply local and unlike anywhere else.
We’ve handpicked some of our favorite spots across the city—places we’ve discovered through our own travels and insider insight from ECT Georgia Expert, Sarah May Grunwald—Founder of Taste Georgia. We’ve also included expert tips from Davit Gambashidze, marketing manager at Restaurant Littera.
Eat
Prepare to be wowed at Littera Restaurant—the setting is within the historic garden of the Georgian Writers’ House, a beautiful cultural landmark that looks like something out of a fairytale. The mansion was built in the early 20th century and is surrounded by century-old trees and seasonal blooms. Inside, Littera offers a modern dining experience—the restaurant is led and owned by Chef Tekuna Gachechiladze, one of Georgia’s most influential culinary figures and a pioneer of the country’s “New Georgian” cuisine. The menu changes throughout the year, celebrating local produce and rediscovered regional recipes, presented with a contemporary touch. Reservations are a must.
Also included in the guide:
Brunch at one of the city’s most stylish venues (industrial-chic meets disco room).
Georgian home cooking, enjoyed in an eclectic space with antique lamps, eclectic tablecloths, patterned plates, and vintage rugs.
“Legendary” lobio in a cozy venue recommended by a local insider
Image credit: IERI
Stay
“Communal Hotels also offer a very beautiful, but smaller, boutique experience,” says Davit. The Sololaki location is a 19th-century townhouse that feels more like a home than a hotel. The rooms draw inspiration from the bohemian spirit of the surrounding streets through saturated jewel tones, vintage furniture, and dark painted walls. If you’re in town for a longer visit, opt for the Luxury Suite which includes a vintage kitchenette equipped with all the necessary amenities.
Also included in the guide:
The hotel we stay in during our group trips (we love its location and leafy courtyard
A restored 19th-century Baroque townhouse that merges antique elegance with thoughtful modern design
Two of the city’s most stylish stays that showcase how old Soviet architecture can be adapted into modern design
Image credit: Littera Restaurant
Shop
What do you get when you combine modern Georgian fashion, Georgian cultural heritage and an old winery? The answer is IERI, the first concept store to bring together a majority of Georgian fashion brands under one roof. Set in the Vera district, it’s where to go to discover the city’s design credentials and contemporary creative scene. You’ll find Georgian beauty brands alongside high-fashion pieces, handcrafted jewelry, handmade Georgian-inspired textiles, and general lifestyle pieces.
Also included in the guide:
One of the best vintage stores in all of Tbilisi
A must-visit to snag lovely jewelry pieces to remember your trip by
Exquisite ceramics, textiles, and other artisanal creations from a cozy boutique
Image credit: Communal Hotels
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