The El Camino Travel Guide to Havana, Cuba
Written by Kayla Doris
How to experience Havana? With an open mind and a willingness to engage with it on its own terms. Cuba’s capital isn’t designed for easy consumption. It’s not curated for your feed or streamlined for convenience. Havana is vivid, raw, and unapologetically alive with music spilling from courtyards, conversations unfolding in its streets, and golden sunlight streaming across crumbling facades. Often misrepresented or romanticized, Havana offers the opportunity to look beyond the Cuba headlines and cliches. “The media narratives of the island are often over-politicized, overly critical or overly inflated and glamorized. It is a beautiful place, but you will also see challenging things there,” says ECT member Molly Layman, who has 10 years experience traveling and working in Cuba. “The ‘stuck in time’ narrative is a stereotype I don’t encourage. The island is growing and changing so much. Many local artists and entrepreneurs are flourishing. Take it all in, the vintage alongside the new. Nostalgic music and old cars, plus inspirational creatives redefining life in Havana today. Both are important and shape the experience.” We couldn’t have put it better ourselves, and we’ve tried to reflect that balance throughout our guide. We’ll be honest when we say that Cuba isn’t for everyone. If you're looking for a smooth, curated Caribbean vacation, with high-end consistency, then this isn’t the place. But if you value culture, creativity, and connection, and you’re okay with a little unpredictability and discomfort, Havana is what you’re looking for.
We’ve gathered intel from our own Cuba tours and tapped local experts, Ana Abella—Co-Founder of AMA HAVANA, and Idania Del Rio—cofounder of Clandestina, plus ECT member and Cuba expert, Molly Layman to curate a list of insider recommendations for eating, drinking, shopping, and sightseeing your way through the city.
Eat
“My favorite upscale lunch is La Bodega Vedado, where you brush arms with diplomats and ambassadors puffing on Cuban cigars,” says ECT member and Cuba expert, Molly Layman. The restaurant is part of La Reserva Hotel in Havana's Vedado neighborhood, and is set within a lush garden. Expect Cuban regional specialties alongside exclusive dishes and cocktails crafted by chefs and mixologists.
Also included in the guide:
“A spot I never miss on a trip,” says Molly. “I can’t explain why I love it so much, other than it feels like a classic no-frills restaurant in someone’s home.”
Soulful Cuban cooking under the helm of a chef with a creative flair for the culinary arts.
Where to enjoy a Spanish-Cuban menu from a candlelit table.
Image credit: AMA Havana
Stay
Enjoy the stunning design details at Gardens, a beautifully restored four-bedroom boutique stay full of high arched doorways, handmade furniture, tiled bathrooms, and tropical plants. The house can be booked as a whole or by floor—each level offering two spacious bedrooms with en suite bathrooms, and access to stylish shared living and dining areas. Highlights include the rooftop pool (a rarity in Old Havana) and the reading room to kick back and relax or listen to some music.
Also included in the guide:
The hotel that blends Cuban character with understated elegance, featuring a cozy garden, a refined culinary experience.
A light-filled loft that’s beloved by an ECT member.
A beautiful boutique hotel that exudes vintage Caribbean charm.
Image credit: La Bodega Vedado
Shop
Shop the ultimate holiday pieces at AMA Havana. AMA is a Cuban brand founded in 2020 by two young musicians, born out of the need to wear fashion accessories they couldn’t find in their surroundings. With a strong focus on sustainability and the appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship, they create unique pieces that tell stories and convey Cuba’s cultural identity. Snap up colorful crochet bucket hats, bags, and scrunchies, stone necklaces, and beaded crop tops in Vedado.
Also included in the guide:
The design brand that captures modern Cuban identity through bold graphics and cheeky slogans.
Timeless fashion items that are locally handmade, using local materials and thoughtful design elements.
A concept store and bar selling crochet tops and handmades.
Image credit: Gardens
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